Little Lhasa

Hello again!
Greetings from the beautiful, luscious dripping wet foothills of the Himalaya.... yes, we are in McLeod Ganj, which is a small town just near Dharamsala in Himachal Pradesh (North India). We left chaotic Punjab and took a bus here, and my my, is it a little Tibetan Paradise, a much needed rest from the assault of everyday life in Amritsar.

As it is the tail end of the rainy season, we've gotten a few downpours and then the foggy mist will start to lift, lift - and then sun will stream down upon a distant snowy peak, and all of the beatiful colored buildings in the hills will sparkle... gives me the shivers! Today we walked through the hills past the Dalai Lama's residence, and visited the temple where many Tibetan monks come to study Buddhist Philosophy and practice. Walking through the soft rain we past many prayer flags tied to the trees, rocks carved with Tibetan mantras, and prayer wheels spun by the elderly Tibetan refugees who fled here after being tortured by the Chinese. There is a home nearby for the elderly, so all of the sweet older people were walking the paths and smiling at us. What am amazing and enchanting place to spend the final years of your life (Pete, let's retire here!) And monkeys everywhere,swinging through the trees and squawking! Little baby monkeys hanging onto their mothers-- everyone says we will grow to be annoyed with them in India but for now I am thrilled. And of course the cattle wander everywhere and anywhere, but in this town they seem to be pretty fat and not so pitiful looking. It's still weird to see them in the streets though!

It is very inspiring to visit the Tibetan museum, to read of the thousands who fled brutal persecution and walked on foot through the Himalaya, many losing limbs and fingers to frostbite as they struggled to make it through the ice and snow to escape the Chinese. I didn't realize how much persecution is still taking place-- it was very informative to visit the museum and read the current state of affairs and read the Dalai Lama's consistent urge for a peaceful resolution. It was interesting to learn that he's not pushing the Chinese gov't to grant them their own independent nation, but to remain part of China but with freedoms to maintain their own culture and freedom to practice their traditions, language and religion. He fears that with improving relations between the west and China, many of us will forget about the atrocities and torture still being committed against the Tibetans. So let us all remember this and remind our senators and congresspeople that this issue must still be resolved and is not forgotten.

This is definitely a rejuvinating place to be -- such beautiful mountains, beautiful Tibetan people who are filled with gentle smiles and kind words. The common Indian man can really get you down here, as a woman, with all the jeers and stares and taunting, but the Tibetans are very welcoming and genuine, so we needed this! When I think of Tibetans now, I just think of all the wrinkles around their eyes, and how beautiful their eyes are when they smile. I would definitely come back here and take some courses and stay for awhile in the hills. When its not so rainy, do some trekking. And there are beautiful Tibetan wools and cozy blankets - just beautiful. We are already filling our backpacks too full and we still have weeks to go!

Next we will head down on a bus to Haridwar and Rishikesh (where the Ganges officially exits the mountains and is very sacred to Hindus), and then from there head back into the mountains to Joshimath, near "The Valley of Flowers" Nat'l Park. It's supposed to be peak blooming season for the wildflowers there, so I can't wait! Then we head back to Delhi, and probably fly to Amritsar (in Gujarat), cruise down to the water, to the Portuguese style towns, maybe make it out to the Katchh desert towns, and then work our way back up through Rajasthan for a couple weeks.

Can't wait for that either, although I hope we don't have to endure any more terrible train rides with the men taunting us. We've all determined the buses are more comfortable, because there isn't so much opportunity for people to crowd around and try to squish into our car and sit on top of us. I hate knowing that if I were a man, if would be so much easier to travel or even walk down a typical street in India! But then I am thankful for all the freedoms and respect that we have as women in America -- after being here, I really appreciate that aspect of my home life so much more.

So much color here - my heart is happy.

Love to you all!